What’s black, white and pink all over? A Simon Ekrelius-attired “new lite-punk harle-queen”, that’s what. Swedish-born and now Central London-based designer Ekrelius is known for his architectural approach to design, and the clever multi-hyphenated sobriquets he dreams up for his girls. With his latest collection, Ekrelius was influenced predominately by Grace Jones and Norman Foster’s Gherkin. What resulted is a collection of irreverently humorous printed silk organzas and transparent statement pieces.
Ekrelius graduated from Tillskärarakademin Stockholm where he earned the technical skills that enabled him to start his line in 1998. His S/S 2011 collection entitled “The Reflection” features some of his most impressive creations to date. His signature cuts have evolved more and more each season, and it’s clear that Ekrelius really knows how to work silk organza, silk, wool and cotton blends into something special. Interview with Ekrelius after the Jump — Stefan Urschler. Photo of Simon Ekrelius by Simon Ackerman.
What is a “new luxury alien punk”?
“New luxury alien punk” is a new kind of futuristic punk girl with a revolutionary taste for quality and unique design. She’s a bit ironic and over the top with a dual dark and light sense of humor. Like an alien Barbie on the wrong medication.
When I looked at your collection “The Reflection” I was uncannily reminded of the movie Blade Runner. Where did the ideas for this collection come from and where did you find inspiration?
I went to see Grace Jones at Lovebox here in London. I have always admired her, and she still rocks even though she is older then my mum. I am also fascinated by architecture, so I combined the two. I have always admired the Gherkin. I watched it from the beginning — arising from nothing into this beautiful sculptural building. It was Norman Foster’s love shooting up in an ironic way. Like a giant cock in the middle of the banker-wanker district. Absolutely hilarious and well made. But, profoundly, I admire the Gherkin’s geometric construction, silhouette and the colors that it reflects. That was the predominant inspiration for my s/s11 collection entitled ‘’The Reflection’’.
When did you decide to start working as a fashion designer?
In 1998 with high fashion and in 2006 with the ready to wear.
(“The Refliction” Spring Summer 2011)
How was studying at the Tillskärarakademin?
It was really good in many technical ways, which is exactly what I needed. However, creatively it was not very liberal. There were a lot of rules, and the teachers were very serious in an old-school way. I guess that’s why they are teachers and people like me should not be teachers. Although, having said that, I am quite proud seeing my assistants doing really well after having been with me.
What do you think are the main differences between the London and Stockholm fashion scenes?
Here (in London) there is a lot more to do and see. There is more variety. It never gets as concentrated here as it does in Stockholm.
What is your favorite piece that you’ve made?
My absolute favorites have got to be my tailored jackets and my transparent pieces using my own designed prints on silk organza. I like them all, although I am a typical designer in the respect that I never love my pieces totally. I always see them as works in progress.
(Simon Ekrelius by Simon Ackerman)
“Stardust” was inspired Le Corbusier. What other architects do you like?
Norman Foster, Renzo Piano, Richard Rogers, Geoffry Powell, R. Buckminster Fuller, Moshe Safdie, Christoph Bon and Charles Greenberg.
What can we expect in the future from you?
Ideally I would like to open my own place soon. A new collection should be ready in the spring sometime, and perhaps there will be a virtual launch to accompany it. Until I find my dream place I will continue doing private clients from my central London studio. What’s really interesting is that I have seen more private clients ordering pieces from the website and my Facebook page during these hard economic times. I feel that my pieces are guilt-free luxury goods. They are statement pieces that will be used and loved for many years. I’m not stressing the ready to wear as much. I decided not to push it because it’s just not me to do that. The right buyers will come along when the time is right and, meanwhile, clients can do the made-to-order. That way I’m not selling myself out cheaply to the wrong people. My label will stay exclusive and valuable.
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