LOOK: DOPPELGANGER IMAGES OF THE HUMAN BEING BY GESTALTEN

May 27th, 2011

A pile of boxes in an Ikea aisle tilts to the side a little too sadly and gesturally. A lumpy pebble-encrusted oval has a slit of peony pink ear flesh shining through on one side; two blank sockets as eyes. The bottom of a man’s face melts into a pastel glop of sprinkles, ice cream, and sticky red sauce, a greedy bite cutting into the side of his head where his ear should be. All of these images are of humans; a peek of flesh, fingers, or shoes — even just a human-like silhouette — there to ascertain this. But what these images, and the rest of the artfully-curated images in Gestalten’s new release Doppelganger Images of the Human Being, do is question what exactly constitutes a human portrait in a time when what it means to be, and even look like, a human is up in the air. With science on the verge of allowing us to trade in our natural forms — like shabby old suitcases — for new, technologically-augmented forms, we have to wonder at what point we’ll cease being humans and start being objects. Indeed, it doesn’t take much au naturalness these days for something, anything, to be labeled a human. Prime example: GaGa who recently took to the red carpet in a giant white egg. “There’s Lady GaGa” commentators remarked, referring to the big white orb.

The artistic approach to the human form — a constant subject since the beginning of art itself — has been constantly reconfigured throughout history. According to the preface essay on Post-Digital Identity by Robert Klanten, the rendering of the human usually changes dramatically in times of technological upheaval. During the Renaissance, when science first began locking horns with religion, the human form and its every sinew, tendon, and muscle, was studied and drawn with exhaustive scientific precision. With the dawning of the Industrial Revolution, Cubism, and Futurism, the human form was fractured into geometric pieces and interchangeable parts. Now, in this so-called “post-digital” age where we are morphing into what we Tweet, post, and blog, traditional corporeality is becoming less and less relevant. This online identity is referred to by Robert Klanten in his preface essay as “the doppelganger.” It is an extension of self that may soon overtake the self as we know it; it lives and breathes in the digital realm and instead of blood has black and white 0s and 1s coursing through its veins. This doppelganger has the means to build empires, make friends, and influence people without any physical interaction — it’s an idealized and hyperbolized identity, free to grow without flesh as a limit. So how do we embody this doppleganger and capture its essence via art? This is the question that Doppelganger poses and seeks to answer.

Ranging from embellishment and reverse tromp l’oeil to sculpture and collage, the works in Doppelganger are creative expressions of the human during this time of uncertainty. The works seek to define what drives the modern day human emotionally, sexually, physically, and philosophically. Check out more pictures after the jump. — Text by Marlo Kronberg

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DEREK LAWLOR

May 26th, 2011

The last few years have seen a growing trend of conceptual knitwear designers exploring the age-old methods once relegated to scarves, intarsia sweaters, and endless hats. Among Sandra Backlund & Michiko Koshino, Derek Lawlor has also found a place as an innovative voice in contemporary knitwear design. The English born Central St. Martins Masters graduate has had his hand in reviving, and even revolutionizing, this movement with Japanese armor-inspired pieces created with a completely new technique. Not content using traditional materials to create his textural garments, Lawlor developed a unique use of waxed cord formed into lace shaped over body conscious cashmere dresses. Long fringes of cord create movement while looped layers of cord become levels of scalloped embellishment. Lawlors work is intriguing, at once pushing the viewer away with its severe color palate and at the same time, drawing them in to explore the tightly wound layers and shapes. In an attempt to get closer to the core of his designs, we asked the designer about his collection, his life and his favorite things. Read our interview with Derek Lawlor after the jump. – Text by Kelsey Kreiling. Production/Editor: Peter Berwind Humphrey

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DAVID NOONAN

May 25th, 2011

When I trawl through one-pound bins of exhibition catalogues and obscure artist books it makes art feel very fleeting and vulnerable,” explains London-via-Oz artist David Noonan about his bent for rummaging around the dusty piles of London’s antiquarian bookshop. It’s this understanding of evanescence — and the curiosity for what will subsequently materialize — that informs Noonan’s  sepia-toned silkscreens which seem to be culled straight from that interstitial fade between movie scenes. Emulating screen grabs from experimental 1920s Dadaist or German expressionist films (that, or lost Tim Burton flicks), each Noonan piece is a little self-contained narrative unto itself; prodding us to connect two or more seemingly unrelated images using our own subjective experiences as the binding threads. Thusly, the surreal double exposed tableaus suggest emotional states and cross-dimensional relationships: a hazy trio of owls superimposed over a man and woman seem to comment on the psychic states of the humans; meanwhile the visage of a handsome young guy fading into a band of half-naked zombie warriors — his eyes turning into alien white slits as the leg of a female zombie warrior materializes where his pupil used to be — suggests a relationship between the natural and supernatural. Indeed his characters are so theatrically ghoulish — ranging from Edward Scissorhands lookalikes to possessed pierrots to one-dimensional plywood mimes with heavy black stripes bifurcating their faces — that it’s not hard to see why so many people automatically ask Noonan to list off his favorite directors. Despite this, the artist maintains that it’s still images, not moving ones, that have the ultimate impact on his pieces.

Originally from Ballarat, Australia — a grey and rainy town apparently best known for the “1854 Eureka rebellion — the only armed civil uprising in the history of Australia,” Noonan has called London his permanent home since 2005.  Since 1993 he’s consistently shown worldwide, and has opened solo at places like the Palais de Tokyo, David Kordansky, Foxy Productions, and the Australian Centre for Contemporary Art, Melbourne, with a show slated  to open later this year at The Contemporary Art Museum, St. Louis. OAKAZINE talked to David Noonan a bit about what drives his amazing work. Check out the interview after the jump. — Text by Marlo Kronberg. Images courtesy of the artist and David Kordansky Gallery.

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PHOEBE ENGLISH

May 24th, 2011

If CSM masters student Phoebe English weren’t a fashion designer wunderkind, she would be a trapeze artist. Or a ballerina. The astute Central Saint Martins lady has chosen knit as her art form though, and uses it to create L’Oreal prize winning garments (apart from plenty of applause, of course.) Charmingly self-aware, English knows what she’s talking about, and has a marked intelligence behind her design aesthetic informing every stitch. Refreshingly, English isn’t out to get one over on her fellow designers or classmates either – claiming that each of her St Martins graduation class was a star in their own right. Meet Phoebe English, she of the curly handwriting and wondrous knits…  and be prepared to be bowled over. — Text by Becky Cope. Photographer: Josh Shinner. Hair and Make up: Jess Cheetham. Model: Hildie @ Premier. Interview after the jump.

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BEACH HOUSE

May 23rd, 2011

Summer, sun, surf, sea, sand, sex, salt ‘n vinegar fries…a lot of good things start with the letter ‘s’. OAK recently opened up a brand new Summer store in Fire Island Pines, New York, and in celebration of our new seaside home had Michael Wozniak (Ford) and Hellen (Trump) take some of our favorite Summer staples for a spin in the Fire Island sand and surf. Stylishness, sultriness, and sexiness ensued. See more after the jump.

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MIANSAI

May 20th, 2011

Michael Andrew Saiger’s unisex jewelry label Miansai takes vintage war relics — bullets, model airplane parts, military pins, and coins — and retools them into supremely cool pieces of wearable history. A world-traveler and former model, Saiger crafted his first piece of jewelry his junior year of college; quickly parlaying his knowledge of antiques (his mother owns an antique shop), and quirky-classic personal style into an entire line of jewelry and accessories. Inspired by icons of industrialism like construction sites and ship yards, Miansai’s pieces exude that rustily nautical 1940’s sort of charm: subdued and classic with bad ass undercurrents (think of them as the jewelry equivalents of a Jack and Coke.) Right in time for this summer, Miansai has unveiled some of our favorite pieces yet. Using the brightly-hued rope cord that invokes nostalgic visions of sandy beaches, zinc oxide, and lifeguard whistles, Saiger created a line of beach-ready bracelets which fasten with gold fishing hooks — basically, summer in bracelet form. With OAK’s new beach store launching on Fire Island, we’re looking forward to seeing Miansai bracelets in action all over the beach all summer long. Check out OAKAZINE’s interview with Michael Andrew Saiger and check out his pieces at OAK. Interview after the jump.

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ALEXANDRA GROOVER

May 18th, 2011
http://www.vimeo.com/20143591

 

For all of the austerity and muted tones found in the work of London based designer Alexandra Groover, she can only be described as wholly full of life. Inspired by architecture and the natural world, Groover manipulates felted wool and bias cut silk to grow from cubic shapes into soft, body-conscious silhouettes. The California native has found her home in London after completing her studies at RISD and Central St. Martins, and apprenticing in the studios of the late Alexander McQueen and Zandra Rhodes. Groover’s design aesthetic extends elegantly in to her new film, Birth. The first in a trilogy, the film displays Groover’s fifth collection below the cliffs of Birling Gap; showcasing experimental garments that also feature a collaboration with footwear designer Benjamin John Hall. We interviewed Alexandra Groover to learn more about her great design loves, her early mornings, and everything that she’s working on next. Interview after the jump. – Text by Kelsey Kreiling

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LD TUTTLE

May 18th, 2011

The transformational power of LD Tuttle is found in more places than just its signature footwear. This line of shoes, designed by Tiffany Tuttle, blends architectural inspiration with hard-wearing materials to create a look that has crossed many a catwalk and turned the heads of the fashion world. The Koreatown, LA based designer does quite a bit of crossing herself — spending half of her time speaking “Shoe Italian” at her factory in Italy. She sharpened her design skills at Rebecca Taylor before studying at Milan’s Ars Sutoria. The path that took her to the founding of LD Tuttle in 2006 has crossed Las Vegas, the ballet world, and even the Nat King Cole post office. Tiffany is now focusing on LD Tuttle’s next collection, and took some time to tell us about the process. Read our interview with LD Tuttle’s Tiffany Tuttle and check out some of the S/S 2011 at OAK . Interview after the jump. — Text by Kelsey Kreiling, Editor: Peter Berwind Humphrey

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DANIEL OGLANDER

May 17th, 2011

Brooklyn-based artist Daniel Oglander’s love of trespassing in abandoned houses naturally led him to the subjects of many of his mixed-media canvases — in moldy piles of forgotten books and magazines. It is in the most daunting of such piles that Oglander’s heroines have sought him out — luring him in with a sultry bedroom look as if to huskily intone, “What’s a nice girl like me doing in a place like this? You know you want to save me.” And save them he does, giving them life anew in his colorfully abstract fantasies. Favoring buxom broads of a certain Annie Get Your Gun school of vivacious sensuality, Oglander’s technical sophistication merged with his winsome little-boy-ogling-the-bods-of-bodacious-vixens perspective  manages to give the “sexy woman”  life anew as a subject.OAKAZINE let Oglander take his story into his own hands. Read it after the jump. — Text by Marlo Kronberg. Photo courtesy of United Culture TV.. — Text by Marlo Kronberg. Photo courtesy of United Culture TV.

 

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ANN-SOFIE BACK

May 13th, 2011

According to designer Ann-Sofie Back, her middle class upbringing in “boring” Sweden is responsible for her initial attraction to fashion…as escape. Her Swedish roots can’t be wholly discounted though, as they seemingly have a hand in her signature clean, laser-sharp design ethos.  Her vision — unwavering since her label’s 1998 debut following her graduation from Central Saint Martin’s MA program — is centered on a simplistic, Nordic-informed interpretation of the avant-garde, making cerebral fashion something that even relatively tame dressers can get behind.  With a lot of designers content making ambiguous statements instead of strong, definitive ones, Ann-Sofie Back’s confidence in what she does rubs off; making an Ann-Sofie Back piece, even with all its fabric, a smartly sexy statement. OAKAZINE spoke with Back – who, apart from helming Ann-Sofie Back Atelje and the more casual, but equally inventive sister label Back by Ann-Sofie Back (available at OAK), also serves as creative director of Cheap Monday (also available at OAK) —  about  moving back to Sweden, shitty airport books, and the importance of surrounding oneself with annoying people. — Text by Stefanie Weber. Editor: Peter Berwind Humphrey. Interview after the jump.

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