Dean Sameshima’s art brings together views of men both edgy and tender, juxtaposing them in ways that dually suggest the complexity of a secret life, and the complexity of simply being human. Based out of Berlin and Los Angeles, Dean completed his MFA at the Art Center College of Design, Pasadena, and since then has exhibited in both group and solo shows internationally. Realizing that LA’s sex club culture was not being documented, Sameshima set about recording some of his experience via photo history. In this respect, his body of work might be viewed as confessional, or as pieces of the artist offered up for interpretation. But the work is also a record of what Dean perceives as a dwindling culture; the gay underground which has, in many cases, migrated online. His current show at Peres Projects gallery in Berlin features a variety of screen prints. Working from pre-existing imagery, over the years Dean has amassed a vast patchwork archive of vintage clippings and photographs from old magazines, eBay and estates, through which he can sift to select visual expressions of his ideas. One of the most arresting artworks in the exhibition, Though the Story is Not Without Darkness, was sourced from a 1970’s Japanese softcore porn publication. The image, of a nude frozen mid-leap toward a flowering cherry blossom, is one example of Dean’s drawing out a breathtaking moment from a provenance that might be seen as marginalized or taboo. Pleasure Doesn’t Really Make You Happy is composed of silkscreen ink, the artist’s piss, and anonymous cum on canvas, and is serenely beautiful to look at. There’s an implication in many pieces that everything has two sides – on the flip side of the façade and fear of judgment is the urge to create. Dean also keeps an excellent blog, Cruise or Be Cruised, to share art and ideas. Interview and more images after the jump. – Text by Shirin Borthwick
ADIEU
May 11th, 2011
The quietness of Melinda Santillan’s Adieu is a perfect representation of the way it was first created; the black and grey sketches were drawn in an apartment in wintry Montreal. Though the tee-shirts were later constructed in the warmth of Mexico City, the designs easily recall those first muffled, snowy days of a Montreal winter. Melinda Santillen is the voice and the hand behind the eclectic greyscale designs which incorporate funeral flowers, Baudelaire, swan figurines, and piñatas among other things into surreal graphics. Although her newest collection, Fleurs de Mal, was sketched with True Crime television in the background, it hasn’t lost the sense of lightness that defines Adieu and Melinda herself. Learn more about Melinda Santillan in our interview after the jump. -Text by Kelsey Kreiling
JONATHAN WAITER
May 11th, 2011
In an ever-fast fashion industry where trends, seasons, and desires are on warp-speed, Jonathan Waiter’s photos give us a chance to breath and reflect on fashion’s inner world afresh. Maybe his photographs are a gauge of the industry’s current state — an unadorned view of that particular brand of skinny, topless sexuality that has been its heart for a while. Then again, maybe it isn’t sexuality that is on display at all; just goofy, girlish, awkwardness. Jonathan Waiter’s smart humor is what definitively separates him from the pack, with his power hinging on his ability to blur acting and candidness. After looking at Waiter’s photos you’ll wonder if the difference between the two is as real as you think anyway. Interview after the jump. — Text by Stefanie Weber
MANDY COON
May 9th, 2011Since it’s 2010 founding, Mandy Coon’s eponymous clothing brand has been serving up dramatically constructed pieces that playfully — and seductively — meld the masculine with the feminine. Mandy Coon’s F/W2011 collection was inspired by the classic, austere femininity of Coon’s own mother,bringing about a marked departure from much of her previous work. Coons’ signature sliced-up flowing silk dresses, flirty rompers, and asymmetric cocktail numbers were replaced by stiff, boxy fabrics, high-waisted full leather skirts, and bow-back dresses in markedly conservative cuts. Hemlines were low and necklines were high; with heavy capes with close-fitting hoods or belted fur jackets paired with wide, floor-grazing, leather-tipped skirts. Check out OAKAZINE’s exclusive video coverage of Coon’s F/W 2011 collection. Interview after the jump. — Text by Meg Clark. Video by Elizabeth Perrin. Editor: Peter Berwind Humphrey.
Seduction, Queer Visions of Masculinity
May 8th, 2011
The recently opened art exhibit called “Seduction, Queer Visions of Masculinity” is the result of a focused mission to discover NYC’s most prominent gay artists’ erotic fantasies. In conjunction with The Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual & Transgender Community Center, P.S.J. hosted the event to support gay art but also to have a glimpse into the spirit of gay attraction today. “My wife and I live and work in the West Village/Chelsea area and feel it’s extremely important to be active members of our community,” says Patrick Sullivan, founder and director of P.J.S. Exhibitions. “The LGBT Community Center does great work throughout New York, and we’re excited to help this organization continue to flourish.” It is with uncertainty that we view images of sexual men, while similar images of women are everywhere. On display are 24 artists and many visions and mediums, but the common denominator of the exhibit was masculinity sexualized or men being sexy, raising questions of why is it taboo to sexualize a man, or rather, why is it acceptable to sexualize women. From pure phallus fantasies to slow Sunday mornings in bed, it was a hodge-podge homage. About 100 works are on display at P.J.S. in Chelsea (14th Street between 7th and 8th) until May 10. More images after the jump. — Text by Stefanie Weber. Editor: Peter Berwind Humphrey
WATCH: THE LOTUS EATERS
May 5th, 2011If Evelyn Waugh and Bret Easton Ellis collaborated on a contemporary social satire shot by Jean Baptiste Mondino for British Vogue you might wind up with something similar to Alexandra McGuinness’ debut feature The Lotus Eaters. Named after the episode in The Odyssey where Odysseus loses three men to the drugged-out stupors induced by eating lotus blossoms (a cautionary tale about the dangers of overindulgence), the Lotus Eaters is a tragicomic meditation on the delusion that oftentimes accompanies having everything. According to the director, “My original idea for Lotus Eaters was to make a film that showed both the highs and the hangovers and the hopes that people cling to even while everything is twirling out of control.”
Shot in gleaming black and white, the film follows sylphlike ex-model/wannabe actress Alice (Antonia Campbell Hughes) as she searches for connection in a spiritually bereft floating world of designer drugs, designer clothes, hip boites, and beautiful people. Both detached observer and blank canvas, Alice’s only real friendship is with her on/off heroin-addled boyfriend Charlie (Johnny Flynn) whose psychic expansiveness — albeit rooted in a destructive drug habit — provides much-needed rest from the incessant backstabbing and vapidity of her circle of friends. Meanwhile, Charlie’s close friend, man of relative stability Felix (Benn Northover), also has his gaze steadily affixed on Alice who’s not quite sure what to do with this attention.
Fly on the wall style we trail Alice through London as she interacts with, but mostly observes, the aimless creatures she calls friends in their natural habitats: getting wasted and naked in vodka baths; crashing their Jaguars; shoplifting from fancy boutiques; running around the South of France; and talking over one another about nothing whatsoever at brunch, Ray Bans shielding bloodshot eyes. One particularly illustrative scene has Alice administering a shot of B12 to serial-cheating party girl Saskia’s behind in a bid to help get pregnant. Why? Because Saskia’s “sooooo bored.” Although at times it gets depressing, The Lotus Eaters is ultimately a fun, parodic romp through the London known to the trust-fund set. But what ultimately steals the show are the stray details: a shot of Charlie’s dazed, rolling eyes as he strums an acoustic version of “Papa Was a Rodeo”, a wide pan of a horse dashing through an open field, the over-the-top wardrobe featuring pieces from young British designers like Simone Rocha and Shao Yen Chen, the snippits of performances from rising London bands like O Children, and the fantastic indie soundtrack. Instead of just a film, The Lotus Eaters is a sensory experience that culls from all facets of the arts to create a hyperbolic high-gloss visual statement about the young and doomed. The Lotus Eaters recently premiered at Tribeca, and OAKAZINE had the chance to talk to director Alexandra McGuinness and lead actress Antonia Campbell Hughes a bit about their perspectives on the film. Interview after the jump. — Text by Marlo Kronberg. Photo by Mihaal Danziger.
SANG A
May 4th, 2011
It’s not everyday a Korean pop star makes the successful transition to New York City luxury handbag designer, but as we learned from catching up with designer SANG A at her Soho studio it’s the amalgamation of luck, chance, and fate which allowed her to depart the rigorous schedule of a famed performer and set up shop half way around the world, creating what she refers to as “rebellious luxury.”
Fashion is about recycling, reinventing and recreating itself. The innovative technologies used by SANG A in terms of textile development place her brand at the forefront of exceptional, innovative design. Just as the fabrication of each SANG A creation is unique, so are the bags themselves. Complicated in appearance, yet simple in function, many SANG A bags transform from one shape to another. OAKAZINE caught up with SANG A. Interview after the jump. — Text by Gabrielle Swan
PLEASURE PRINCIPLE
May 3rd, 2011
While deconstructionism has been well-hashed by the design community, designers Adrian Cowen and Diva Pittala bring a strong reconsideration of the concept to their line Pleasure Principle. Inspired by drug culture, life after-hours, politics and pattern-making, their collections push at the edge of darkness while still understanding the body as a vital component of the garment-to-wearer equation. Their cerebral prints feel inspired by long nights and LSD, while their new collection literally emerges from the light. Even with all of these deep concerns, Pleasure Principle is as filled with brevity as they are seriousness. Their collaboration with Olaf Bruening is a bit naughty and contrasts well with the Ants Acid Tab and Skull laser cut tees that they accompany in Pleasure Principle’s portfolio of iconic work. We talked to Diva Pittala about who she is and everything else that makes Pleasure Principle tick. — Text by Kelsey Kreiling. Interview and images after the jump.
UTE PLOIER
May 2nd, 2011The mastery in Ute Ploier’s menswear is found not only in her impeccable shaping and craftsmanship, but moreso in her profound interest in menswear as a concept. Designing for men of all kinds- from the dandy to the everyman- she accounts for textiles and tailoring alongside sculptural basics that form the backbone of any fashionable homme’s wardrobe. Known to develop garments for the “sensual-man-machine”, the Austrian designer is interested in the psychological impact that clothing can have- from the moment it is put on until the second it is taken off. She is fascinated by the sensation of fabric on skin and her constant examination of male archetypes makes her a female pioneer in an industry that becomes more brave each season. We interviewed Ute Ploier about her design process and daily life. Read the full Ute Ploier interview after the jump. –Text by Kelsey Kreiling. Editor: Peter Berwind Humphrey
WENDY BEVAN
April 29th, 2011
Wendy Bevan is a London-based fashion photographer who has done shoots for i-D, Italian Marie Claire, Vogue, Vogue Russia, Harper’s Bazaar, and others. Bevan has a huge repertoire, but she also has a very specific style. She is fascinated with women’s stories and unlike most fashion photographers the clothes aren’t the main event. Her photos are quiet. They don’t beg for attention, but you give it up to her anyway. The worlds that she creates are inviting, but she doesn’t tell you where to go next. That’s the kicker. She brought you here to this world she made, and she makes you climb out of it alone. The photos allude to things in our own lives that she doesn’t even know about. She has made a career for herself playing with this fire, and I was lucky enough to ask her about her intentions in photography and the role of fashion in her stories. I wanted to know what her world is like in real life. In the interview below, we get to chat. — Text by Stefanie Weber. Interview after the jump.

